Monthly Archives: April 2016

How to Make The Right Eye Shadow

When it comes to choosing which eye shadow to buy, I am huge advocate of one simple truth: get the shade that makes you feel amazing. But to feel amazing, you need to feel confident. And when it comes to makeup, nothing gives you more confidence than a good understanding of color theory and how it applies to your natural eye color, hair color, and skin tone.

So, let’s give you some color theory basics so you can purchase with power. Below are some factors to consider when buying an eye shadow — whether you want an everyday look or instant drama.

Skin Tone

Today, skin tones tend to be categorized into two columns, warm and cool. It doesn’t help that some makeup brands will categorize pink tones as warm and yellow tones as cool while others will do just the opposite, because the color wheel is divided down the center and yellow can be considered cool or warm.

But if you are aware of your undertone, you can navigate through all this product with decisiveness. To find out your undertone, check your veins. Our veins are naturally blue, so a yellow skin tone will have veins that appear more green. A pink skin tone’s veins will appear more violet.

If you have a warm skin tone, any warm eye shadow color will look more natural; if you are cool toned, any cool color will look more natural. Selecting shades further to the opposite sides of the color wheel will give you more drama.

Warm skin tones should try colors like bronze, vanilla, ivory, taupe, light and dark brown, pink, and coral. If you have a cool skin tone, play with pale blue, lilac, teal, gray and turquoise.

 Eye Color

Using your own eye color to choose your shadow palette is a perfect way to put the focus exactly where you want it. Using an eye shadow shade that is complimentary to your eye color (one that is opposite on the color wheel) is an easy way to draw attention and make the eye pop or look more prominent. Choosing a shadow that lies close to your eye color (we call this analogous) will give a soft and easy effect that looks beautiful. Here is a simple breakdown.

Blue eyes – We know that orange is opposite blue, so anything in that color family or on either side of orange will create a lovely, dramatic effect. Try shades and tints of orange, red and yellow to get a ‘wow.’ Think copper, gold, peach, coral, pinks, and warm browns. For a more subtle look, something that is next to blue on the color wheel like violets, purples, or greens can create an unexpectedly natural look. Lilac, lavender, deep purple, plum, khaki, and olive are all excellent choices.

Green eyes – Eye shadow with red undertones like burgundy, maroon, and pink, or close colors like violet, lavender, peach, plum, and red are ideal complements to the green of the eyes. Warm metallics like red-based copper and bronze tend to bring out not only the green, but often accentuate the beautiful grey and brown flecks that green-eyed people tend to have.

Brown Hazel eyes – Brown is not boring. In fact, brown-eyed people are able to experiment with the widest variety of colors. Brown-eyed makeup wearers are lucky to have their pick of the lot — from warm, rich amber, copper, and gold tones to cool, slate-grey, charcoal, and lavender hues.

Remember that the three primary shades (red, yellow and blue) combine to make brown, so essentially the world is your oyster. Decide what effect you want to achieve and be creative.

Hair Color

Black/ Brown – Brunettes have more fun when it comes to choosing makeup as many eye shadow colors suit them well. Deep, dark colors like black, browns, and purples are perfect. And for a more natural look, neutrals like gold, beige, cream as well as lighter, softer shades of green, red and yellow all work well with dark hair.

Blonde – Blondes traditionally tend to have a fairer skin tone, meaning a softer palette will be more flattering. Color tints work well for fair skin, so try tints of your favorite reds (pink), oranges (peach) and violets (lilac) for a look that is sure to work.

Red – For a long time, red heads were limited in their options because of fashion norms, but these days, anything goes. Neutral shades will give a more natural look, but strong and bold greens are gorgeous for drama. Let your personality be your guide here and make your own rules.

Bold Color – In this “anything goes” age for hair color, people are wearing bright shades and mermaid-inspired looks. An easy tip to choosing eye shadow: complementary shades are for drama and similar colors are for a softer look.

Still feel a little nervous? If you are a beginner, you may want to buy a color wheel from your favorite art supply store — a great way to feel more secure with color theory.

Finally, one overall rule: matching your eye shadow with the color of your eyes will look dull and diminish the impact of both colors. This does not mean that blue-eyed people should not try blue shadow, or that brown-eyed individuals shouldn’t brush on a rust color. It just requires blending in complimentary colors to make the appearance more captivating.

Matching your shadow choice to your outfit can look a little outdated as well, but, then again, there are no strict rules to follow with today’s makeup ethos of individuality. Don’t be afraid to experiment! The nice thing about makeup is you can just wash it right off.

How to Choose The Feel for Texture

When it comes to choosing eye shadow, many people focus on color first, but shadows also differ from one another in texture. Understanding the many textures available out there can aid you in creating exciting looks, whether you want bold and dramatic, nude and natural, or a creation that is entirely your own.

Here is the lowdown on texture for eye shadows, including a breakdown of my favorite formulas and some hints on how they can work for you.

What does texture mean, exactly?
Texture describes the appearance of an eye shadow, also known as the ‘finish.’ The finish of a shadow effects color payoff, ease of use, and the result of the final look. It applies to all formulations including pressed or loose powder, liquid, and cream. Finish definitely needs to be taken into consideration for the camera — especially in the case of flash photography — but it is also just as important when designing everyday looks.

Matte Shadows
The primary building block to creating a beautiful eye starts with shadows that have a matte finish. Matte shadows have no shine, so they are ideal for providing structure and contour. Since it does not reflect light, the flat texture is great for shaping, defining, and producing a shaded effect. Some mattes are creamy and glide on while others offer a much drier texture. So, it’s best to test the shadow first to see how richly pigmented it is and how finely the powder has been milled.

Try taupe, greys, or browns in medium tones for creating eyebrow dimension or a crease. Use medium or deep, dark tones in brown, black, deep blue or purple as an eyeliner.

Since they offer a more even shading, lighter matte shadows give off a softer and more realistic highlighting effect. Try vanilla, bone and cream for lighter skin tones. For darker skin, try ochre and mid range beiges.

A matte shadow is also the best choice to use as a base because it will not effect the shadows you use above it.

Shimmer Shadows
Shimmer shadows have a subtle sheen and give a hint of sparkle. They offer coverage from sheer to full, depending on the manner of application. They allow the skin to show through, creating a modern and natural look.

Typically, shimmers won’t collect in fine lines and wrinkles, making them ideal for more mature skin.

The lightest shimmer shades work extremely well for highlighting recessed areas of the eyelid. The darker shimmers work great for adding drama without being as harsh as the dark matte shades.

Satin Shadows
These semi-matte shadows fit perfectly in the category between shimmer and matte. They offer more shine than traditional matte shades but possess a smoother reflectivity than shimmer, so they work well for all ages and skin shades.

Because they are so versatile, they can be used to bring light or depth to an area. But they can also ground the look of more textured shadows that exaggerate contours and refract light.

Satin shadows are great as base eye shadows. I love them for lining under the eye or filling in an eyebrow where you need a bit of lift. Satin shadows in the same color range as your favorite mattes are a great investment. I even recommend satin texture for your bolder color choices because they tend to provide a smoother application.

Frosted Shadows
Maligned by some and celebrated by others, the frost range of shadows cannot be overlooked. These eye shadows give more opaque coverage and their pearlized white or silver sparkle can express a cold or icy effect.

Frosted shadows are better for younger makeup wearers or more taut skin because frosted shadows can easily sink into creases, making them more apparent.

Not only do they not tend to work well on mature skin but frosted shadows can also look dated or can be perceived as tacky, so use them judiciously.

Sheen Shadows
Eye Shadows with a sheen formula are highly reflective but tend to offer a more even shine than sparkle or shimmer shadows. Sheen is a great option for lifting and bringing light to an area. The range of sheen eye shadows is unlimited.

The effect of sheen shadows can almost appear wet or dewy. And unlike frosted shadows, sheen finishes can look fashion forward, warm and modern. This product is ideal on the lid from crease to lash and works well for all eye shapes, except for protruding eyes.

Metallic Shadows
Metallic finish is exactly what it sounds like. It has an intense metal sheen and resembles real mined metal – silver, gold, copper, bronze, platinum and more.

Metallic shadows are ideal on the lid for a natural look because the warmer-colored metals can bring out skin tone. They are also fantastic as a liner, adding to the dewy and sensual effect that makes eyes softer and sexier. Metals like rose gold, yellow gold and patina copper are everywhere this season and both timely and timeless.

Sparkle Shadows
Sparkle eye shadow is a texture that contains small particles to reflect the light. The different particles and sizes reflect light in small bursts as opposed to the more uniform reflect of sheen of frost.

Sparkle shadows are perfect to add color, interest, and depth to the eyes and can be worn by itself in an everyday beauty routine or as a complementary addition with other textures to manipulate shape and size. Softer sparkle eye shadow softly illuminates lids, making them appear more open while lighter shades can double as highlighters.

Glitter Shadows
Glitter Eye shadow is a texture that contains medium and large particles to reflect and refract light. The different size particles reflect constant light in large and small bursts, creating a sparkling effect.

Glitter shadows are a favorite of makeup wearers who want to bring attention to an eye area, adding interest and impact to the eyes. A little glitter goes a long way — overdo it, and this look can be perceived as young or lacking polish if it’s not applied properly. Use glitter shadows sparingly or pile it on and show people you sparkle and shine like a star.

There you go! It may seem like eye shadow texture comes with a lot of rules for application. But use this list as a way to understand the effect of shadows and break the rules. Create the eye look that you love, and do not limit yourself with so many choices at your fingertips.

Tips to Do Winged Eyeliner

The classic cat eye, though a popular makeup style that’s been around for decades, can be a huge pain to master. It seems so effortless—just finish off your eyeliner with a neat little wing for instantly bigger, brighter eyes. Easy, right? Not for those of us whose failed attempts at a flawless feline flick end with makeup remover and a lot of frustration.

Fortunately, there are products out there that make winged eyeliner much easier to get right. For the tutorial below, we ditched our tricky liquid liner in favor of Inglot Cosmetics AMC Eyeliner Gel, a richly pigmented gel liner that dries to a long-lasting matte finish. The creamy texture makes it easy to paint on a perfect cat eye in just a few minutes. Plus, it’s smudge-proof, crease-proof, and waterproof. (Pro tip: To keep your Eyeliner Gel fresh, partially peel back the protective liner on top of the jar without fully removing it. If needed, you can also moisten the product with a few drops of Duraline.)

To get you started on your way to becoming a winged eyeliner pro, here’s a tutorial on how to use gel eyeliner to draw a classic cat eye.

Step 1
Start by using an angled eyeliner brush, such as Wayne Goss Brush 08, to line your upper lashes. Dip the brush into your Eyeliner Gel and draw a thin line that hugs the base of your lashline.

Step 2
Next, draw a slightly thicker line from the inner corner to the outer corner of your eye. This line should start out very thin and get slightly thicker as you continue towards your outermost eyelash.

Step 3
Draw a thin wing that points up and out from the outer corner of your eye. The wing’s tip should angle up towards the end of your eyebrow. Use a pointed cotton swab dipped in Bioderma Sensibio H2O to clean up any mistakes and carve out a crisp, sharp flick.

If you’re a beginner, you can also map out your cat eye with small dots before tracing over them with eyeliner.

Most importantly, keep practicing! Experiment with the thickness of your line and the angle of your wing to discover what looks best with your eye shape. Winged eyeliner can seem difficult at first, but it gets easier with time—especially if you start with a gel eyeliner, which tends to be more forgiving than liquid or pencil.

Now that you’ve gotten the hang of basic winged liner, take it to the next level with these three creative cat eye looks.